Conduct becoming in São Paulo

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Posted by: Economist.com | LONDON
Categories: Etiquette
DESPITE its many woes, São Paulo remains the business hub of Latin America. Having prospered first with coffee and then with industrialisation, it is now reinventing itself in the services sector. Its huge market (nearly 20m people in greater São Paulo) is a magnet for multinationals. The city claims to attract more visitors (mostly, but no longer exclusively, on business) than Rio; bearing in mind the intense rivalry between the two cities, this must prove deeply satisfying. If you are one of those heading to São Paulo, here are some things to be aware of (part of a series).  

• Local business-people tend to be fairly laid-back. There are few unexpected taboos that you should fear transgressing.

• One exception though: avoid putting your briefcase or handbag on the ground (local superstition holds that your money may run away). Restaurants sometimes provide hooks or clips to help.

• It is always best to arrive at a business meeting in a suit, but sometimes even investment bankers wear “smart casuals” in the office.

• In this workaholic city, don’t be surprised if meetings are scheduled after 6pm. Brazilians talk about “pontualidade britânica” (British punctuality), which means turning up on the dot. But you should neither give nor take great offence if you or others arrive a little late. Bad traffic is usually the excuse.

• Business contacts tend to speak English, often fluently. But locals will appreciate even clumsy attempts to chat in Portuguese. (Remember “Bom dia”, “Boa tarde” and “Boa noite” for “Good morning”, “Good afternoon” and “Good evening”.) Do not assume that people will speak Spanish.

• Poor plumbing originally led Brazilians to dispose of toilet paper (papel) in the bin (lixo) rather than the toilet bowl. Though pipes have improved in newer buildings, the habit persists. You may be asked to follow this practice.

Safety

• São Paulo deserves its reputation for crime, though the worst of it takes place in the periphery of town. The main business and nightlife streets are the safest areas, providing you take certain precautions.

• Take taxis—they are cheap and plentiful.

• Lock your car door and roll up the windows, whether in a cab or a private car.

• Withdraw your money before it is dark. Most ATMs stop working at 10pm or 11pm to prevent night-time muggings.

• Only take what is necessary, in terms of cash, credit cards and identification. Some paulistanos recommend carrying extra cash—perhaps in dollars so you won’t spend it—to placate an assailant if you are mugged. Leave conspicuous jewellery in your hotel safe.

• Rich paulistanos are spending serious money bullet-proofing their cars, to protect themselves from hold-ups at traffic lights. Though most common in the periphery of São Paulo, these hold-ups sometimes happen in broad daylight on main thoroughfares. They rarely end in violence.

• Some visitors are more worried about getting run over than getting robbed or shot. Traffic does not always obey red lights or one-way signs. New bus lanes are making matters worse, and the plague of motoboys (dispatch riders) weaving through the traffic makes it even more hazardous to cross the road. They often roar along the pavement if the mood takes them.

• Pay great attention when crossing main streets. City-centre buses now use special right-hand fast lanes, so bus stops are on the central meridian. Sight lines to other vehicles are blocked by the buses when they stop.

Tipping

• For taxis round up to the nearest real. Restaurants and bars with table service usually add a 10% service charge (serviço or taxa de serviço) or stamp your bill with a phrase like “serviço não incluso”, which means they expect 10% on the total.

• Some bars and clubs give you a card when you enter, on which the staff mark the cost of your drinks and food as you go along. You then pay at a cash desk near the exit, they stamp your card, and you hand it to the bouncer on your way out. Some bars automatically add a service charge. Regardless, they will not typically expect a further tip.